Financial Advice
What is it?
If you need medical advice you go to a doctor. Many financial advisers like to think of themselves as the 'doctor' you go to when you need money advice. Trouble is,
few would trust a financial adviser anywhere near the extent they'd trust a doctor, and some wouldn't even trust a doctor!
Nonetheless, financial advice can, in the right circumstances, prove invaluable. The key is to establish when you need advice and, if so, find the best and most
cost-effective adviser for the job.
Continuing the doctor analogy: If you're suffering from a mild headache, you're probably more than capable of sorting it yourself, i.e. there's no need to visit
your doctor. If you're suffering from a virus you'd probably be happy seeing your doctor, but prefer that they can prescribe any medicine on the market, not
just one brand. If you need major surgery, you'd definitely want expert medical help, but this is beyond the skills of your doctor so you'd want a specialist on the
case.
When should I get financial advice?
The simplest answer is: when you don't feel confident making the right financial decision yourself. Fortunately, by using this site along with some common
sense, you can probably make more good financial decisions than you might think. Not all financial advice is difficult or particularly technical, so don't
assume you always need to see an adviser, it could be like paying an electrician to change a light bulb!
However, it's important to recognise when using a good adviser can be money well spent. Some areas, such as inheritance tax, investment and retirement planning
can, at times, be complex, especially when there's large sums of money involved. Whatever the situation, if you want/need advice then choose your adviser very
carefully.
Types of financial advice
There are three types of adviser:
TiedMulti-TiedIndependent
Tied advisers can only recommend the products offered by the company or group they represent. This can be severely limiting. Even if they can sell you a product
that's appropriate, it may be poor compared to others in the marketplace.
That's not to say tied advice is always bad, many tied advisers benefit from good training and backup from their employers (typically large banks and insurers) and
the advice is often very accessible, e.g. via the high street. The products aren't always bad either.
Trouble is, would you ever want to see a doctor (no matter how good they might be) knowing they could only prescribe medicine made by one manufacturer?
Multi-Tied advisers are similar to tied, but can recommend products from several companies. This is an improvement over tied, but can still be very restricting.
There's also a risk that the adviser will select the provider that earns them the most commission/bonus/brownie points etc with their employer.
Some banks and insurers have moved to multi-tied advice, while others remain tied - it's important to understand which you're getting if you take advice via
this route
Independent financial advisers (IFAs) can, in theory, choose from the entire marketplace. They can decide on exactly what type of product is most suitable for you
then search the market to find the best provider for the job. Arguably, you wouldn't want to use any other type of adviser.
One of the biggest risks with independent advice is that the adviser (unless they're fee-only) might select the provider that pays them the most commission, not
the one that's best for you. Some IFAs tend to be 'general practitioners' while others focus more heavily on certain areas of expertise.
Bear in mind that whichever type of adviser you choose, there's no guarantee you'll receive good, impartial advice. It's likely there's some tied advisers who are
more honest and try to do a better job for their clients than some IFAs (albeit they probably can't give ideal advice due to the restriction of being tied).
The only thing you can safely assume is that an IFA will almost certainly be able to source better products than a tied or multi-tied adviser.
How much does it cost?
Financial advisers earn their living from giving advice, so you should expect to pay for it. There's normally two routes, commission and fees. IFAs must offer a fee
option, although many offer the commission route too.
CommissionFees (hourly)Fees (percentage)
Many financial product providers pay a commission to an adviser in return for selling their products. Because you don't pay the adviser directly, this might seem
attractive as the advice appears to be 'free'. It's not. The product provider will fund the commission from the charges or premiums you pay.
There's two types of commission: initial and annual. Initial commissions are paid to the adviser when they make the sale and annual commissions each year
thereafter as long as you still own the product.
High initial commissions should be avoided at all costs. The adviser is making most, or all, of their money upfront, giving them little incentive to look after
you in future.
Actual levels of commission vary widely depending on product. Lump sum products might have initial commission as high as 7% or more and annual commission of
0.5% - 0.75%, while regular contribution products can pay as much as all your first year's premiums as initial commission. Advisers must tell you (and you should
always ask) how much commission they expect to receive before you buy.
You'll see typical commission rates in the 'advisers & commissions' section on all relevant pages on this site.
Hourly fees work in a similar way to if you are paying an accountant or solicitor and typically range from £100 to over £250 per hour.
If an adviser charges hourly fees you would expect them to waive or refund all the commissions they would normally receive, resulting in lower charges or cashback
respectively.
Always ask for a free initial consultation and get a quote for the work the adviser is to carry out. It's also sensible to compare at least two advisers before
going ahead.
This route should remove the potential bias that commissions can cause, but there's still no guarantee of the quality of the advice you'll receive. Also beware that
some advisers might simply pitch their fees at about the same amount they would have received had they worked on commission, so this isn't necessarily a cheaper
route.
Percentage fees are a bit like commission in that they're calculated as a percentage of the amount you invest, but you pay them to the adviser directly (rather than
coming from the product provider).
Fee based advisers tend to most often charge percentage fees when advising on or managing investments You should really try to avoid upfront percentage fees
unless they end up being lower than an hourly fee for similar advice - if you don't then you could end up paying a fortune when investing larger sums.
Annual percentage fees, provided reasonable, do hold some appeal. The adviser makes more money if your investments rise in value, so it gives them some incentive
to do a good job. However, there's a risk they might do very little but still collect their annual fee, especially if the fee is automatically deducted from your
investment.
As with hourly fees, percentage fees should remove the potential bias that commissions can cause, but make sure you receive the full benefit of all commissions
that would otherwise have been paid to the adviser.
Mis-selling
The single biggest problem with commission is that it can tempt a commission-based adviser to compromise their advice in pursuit of profit, resulting in
'mis-selling'. There's clear evidence of mis-selling taking place over the years, with high profile mis-selling scandals arising from the inappropriate selling of high
commission products such as pensions and endowments.
While advisers have, to some extent, been forced to clean up their act, it's hard to believe that mis-selling does not still go on. And it's not just perpetrated
by shady backstreet practices, the Financial Services Authority (FSA) has found a number of high profile advisers guilty of mis-selling or other compliance failings.
| Companies fined by the FSA for mis-selling or serious compliance failings |
| Company |
Status |
Fine |
Date |
Reason for Fine |
Link to details |
| AWD Chase de Vere Wealth Management Ltd |
IFA |
£1.12 million |
Nov 2008 |
Serious failings in its pension transfer, pension annuity and income withdrawal business that resulted in mis-selling. |
link |
| Thinc Group Limited (now part of Bluefin Group) |
IFA |
£900,000 |
May 2008 |
Not having adequate risk management and compliance systems for its sub prime mortgage business and for failing to take reasonable care to ensure
that it had records to prove that advice it gave to customers in relation to the sale of sub prime mortgages was suitable. |
link |
| Sesame Limited |
IFA |
£330,000 |
Apr 2007 |
Failing to treat its customers fairly by not handling complaints concerning Structured Capital At Risk Products (SCARPs) adequately. |
link |
| W Deb MVL Plc (Williams de Broe) |
Stockbroker |
£560,000 |
Jan 2007 |
Widespread failings in its systems and controls resulting in poor accounting systems and inadequate client money protection. |
link |
| Langtons (IFA) Limited |
IFA |
£63,000 |
Sept 2006 |
Failing to properly apportion roles and responsibilities to its senior management and for not having systems in place to ensure that its advisers were trained and competent. |
link |
| Braemar Financial Planning Limited |
IFA |
£182,000 |
Sept 2006 |
Systemic failings in its sales process for pensions unlocking. The failings resulted from advisers not taking reasonable steps to ensure that recommendations were suitable for their customers. |
link |
| Source: Financial Services Authority. |
These examples are just a few of the larger fines, but there's plenty of others - just take a look at the FSA's website.
The above companies may well have pulled up their socks since being fined by the FSA - the list isn't intended to vilify but highlight that even higher
profile advisers have gotten into trouble with the FSA for mis-selling or compliance failings.
Discount brokers
If you're happy making your own financial decisions there's one small problem, many financial product providers don't reduce their charges for customers buying
direct, i.e. you'd pay the same whether you buy direct or through an adviser (even though the adviser might receive commission). This is where discount brokers
come in.
Discount brokers don't (normally) give advice, but will transact the purchase for you then share the commission they receive from the product provider. A few will
even refund all the commission they receive and simply charge a flat 'admin' fee instead - potentially even better value.
While the concept is simple, the services provided by discount brokers do vary. At their very simplest, they just put their details on your application form to
ensure commission is paid. Some provide various information and guidance, ranging from thinly disguised sales material to genuinely useful comment and
research, while a few offer the chance to speak to an adviser (if you're investing enough) and get some sort of assistance with your decision.
| Potential Discount Broker Savings on a Unit Trust over 10 Years |
| Assumes: £10,000 initial investment, standard initial charge 3%, annual charge of 1.5%, annual return before charges 6%, annual
commission 0.5%, all discount brokers waive initial commission to remove initial charge. |
| Purchased From |
Initial Charge |
Annual Charge |
Estimated Final Value |
Difference vs IFA |
| IFA |
3% |
1.50% |
£15,064 |
£0 |
| Discount Broker (no annual rebate) |
0% |
1.50% |
£15,530 |
£466 |
| Discount Broker (50% annual rebate) |
0% |
1.25%* |
£15,905 |
£841 |
| Discount Broker (full annual rebate)** |
0% |
1.00%* |
£16,124 |
£1,060 |
| Figures assume a fixed annual return, in practice it may vary. * estimated equivalent annual charge including annual
commission rebate. ** assumes a £20 initial fee then a £10 annual fee. |
To find out how much you might save on a particular product, look out for the discount broker entry in the 'ways to buy' section featured on relevant pages on
this site.
Choosing an adviser
In terms of finding advisers to chose from, you could use recommendations from friends/colleagues or find a list of IFAs in your area using
www.unbiased.co.uk. You could also take a look at our user's experiences and views in the
reviews section.
Before you talk to any financial adviser bear in mind one very important point, they're in business primarily to make money for themselves (and there's nothing
wrong with that per se). Now, an adviser with any sense, who plans to stick around, will realise the best way to do this is to give their customers good advice and
great service. Loyal customers are invariably profitable customers. However, not all advisers and/or their employers have such wisdom or honest motives, and instead
focus on short term sales targets - this is why you need to be very wary.
Check they're authorised
Financial advisers providing investment, mortgage or insurance advice must be authorised and regulated by the FSA, which can give you some protection if things go
wrong. You can check that an adviser is authorised using the FSA's website.
Is the adviser independent?
Even if the adviser is an IFA, can you be sure they're truly independent? If they only offer a fee option then this should reduce the risk of product bias
(which is normally caused by commission).
What products can the adviser provide advice on?
This may be restricted, e.g. it may not include investment trusts or more complex inheritance tax planning. Ask yourself whether any such exclusions might affect
the quality of the advice you receive.
Does the adviser use a 'product panel'?
Many IFAs work from a panel of recommended products. Provided the panel is diverse and results from comprehensive research, this is no bad thing. However, a panel
with only a few options and/or one based on flimsy research could restrict the quality of the advice you receive. There's also a risk that commission based advisers
let commission influence the products that appear on their panel.
What qualifications does the adviser have and how long have they been practicing?
A financial adviser can gain the bare minimum qualifications required to practice within a few months. Even a grey haired adviser who looks as though he may have
spent a lifetime in financial services might actually have just a few months experience following a career change, with little practical knowledge or experience.
A well qualified and experienced adviser could still give poor advice or mis-sell, but they should at least know their stuff, especially on more complex subjects.
What financial incentive does the adviser have to continue looking after you?
Advisers who receive all, or the bulk, of their remuneration upfront are unlikely to take much interest in you after the initial sale, unless you want to give them
more business. Make sure the adviser will be sufficiently motivated to continue looking after you.
The advice (sales) process
What should you expect to happen when you see an adviser? Well, the exact process varies between advisers, but most follow a general pattern as follows:
- You have a no obligation face to face meeting. The adviser should outline how they work and give you a document detailing their services and how they're paid.
They'll also run through your financial situation, by completing a 'fact-find', and discuss how they can help you. If you have the
option, you'll need to consider whether to opt for fees or commission. At the end of the meeting the adviser will probably want to arrange a further meeting to present
their advice.
[The adviser's not being paid for this meeting, so their objective is probably to size up whether you'll be a profitable customer and, if so, convince
you they're the right adviser for you. They'll also want to suss whether you're seeing other advisers and how quickly you plan to make a decision.]
- A second face to face meeting, where the adviser will present their advice and answer any questions you may have. If you're paying hourly fees, the clock is
probably already ticking. If commission or percentage fees, the adviser has yet to make any money so will want to close the deal.
[If the adviser has yet to earn any money, they risk earning nothing for the work they've put in if you walk away to 'think about it' (with their recommendations
under your arm). They lose control of the situation. If you don't sign up at this meeting they'll want to arrange another to try and close the deal.]
- A third face to face meeting with a view to going ahead with the adviser's recommendations, if you haven't already. They might also have 'tweaked' their
recommendations in light of any issues arising from the last meeting.
[The adviser's last real opportunity to close the deal. If you don't proceed, all their time and work will have been in vain.]
What ongoing service should I expect?
Most financial advice, especially investment-related, benefits from some ongoing monitoring and advice. If your adviser receives annual commission and/or fees, they
should really review your situation at least once a year, usually via a meeting, and contact you ad-hoc if an urgent matter needs discussing.
If this doesn't happen, you should take your annual commission and/or fees to another adviser who'll do a better job. Fortunately, this is quite straightforward
You just need to inform the underlying product providers that you wish to change the 'agency' to a new adviser. Any commissions will then pass to your new adviser,
either to pay for their services or to refund to you.
If you've opted for the commission route, this is where using an adviser who takes some annual commission, rather than everything upfront, is especially beneficial.
The ongoing annual commission provides a carrot for another adviser to look after you without charging a fee. If not, you'll have to pay the new adviser a fee and the
original adviser (despite not providing satisfactory ongoing service) is sitting pretty with a fat commission cheque in their pocket.
The advice 'gap'
What happens when you need advice, but an adviser doesn't receive enough commission to make it worth their while to help you, or their fees would
be prohibitive?
This is a common occurrence on low value products that pay little, if any commission, e.g. stakeholder pensions and child trust funds. Fortunately, these products
aren't that complex. With some groundwork (including the use of this website!) you should be able to make a reasonable decision yourself.
The FSA also provides decision trees for stakeholder pensions and lists
sources of free information.
What can you do if it goes wrong?
If you lose money simply because the investment falls in value, then tough luck.
If you lose money due to dishonest or misleading advice, fraud or poor administration then you might have some comeback provided the adviser or investment is
regulated by the Financial Services Authority.
If unhappy, your first step should be to set out your grievance in writing to the adviser or investment company concerned. Hopefully they will respond positively
and help resolve the issue.
If, having done this, you are not happy with the firm's response you can take your complaint to the Financial Ombudsman Service
(FOS). Their role is to review the
complaint impartially and decide on a fair outcome. If the decision is in your favour then the offending firm must abide by that and pay any compensation detailed in
the FOS decision (limited to £100,000 plus interest and costs). Firms generally dislike their customers taking a complaint to the FOS because they're usually charged
a several hundred pounds handling fee per complaint, regardless of the outcome.
If the firm is unable to pay the compensation, perhaps because they've stopped trading, then you should contact the
Financial Services Compensation Scheme
(FSCS).
The FSCS also applies if a firm goes bust and is unable to return investments or money to investors. Although the FSCS says it aims to process claims within six
months, there's no guarantee it will do so. Don't expect to get your money in a hurry.
| FSCS Maximum Levels of Compensation |
| Category |
Limit |
Notes |
| Deposits |
£50,000 per person |
100% of the first £50,000. |
| Investments |
£50,000 per person |
100% of the first £50,000. |
| Mortgages |
£50,000 per person |
100% of the first £50,000. |
| Pensions/Life Insurance |
Unlimited |
90% of the claim. |
| General Insurance |
Unlimited |
90% of the claim, unless compulsory then 100%. |
| Source: Financial Services Compensation Scheme. |
The future - Retail Distribution Review
Realising that the financial advice industry needs a pretty major clean up, the FSA launched a Retail Distribution Review in June 2006. The consultation and
resulting changes are due to complete by the end of 2012.
The FSA seems to have three clear aims (in their own words):
- Improve the clarity for consumers of the characteristics of different service types and the distinctions between them.
- Raise professional standards.
- Reduce the conflicts of interest inherent in remuneration practices and improve transparency of the cost of all advisory services.
What they're basically saying is that they want to make it easier for you to understand the type of advice you're getting ensure advisers are better qualified and
reduce the risk of mis-selling due to commissions.
Of the various announcements made to date, perhaps the most significant is that by the end of 2012 any commission payments from providers to advisers must be
taken directly from product being sold, i.e. if a pension pays £1,000 commission then £1,000 will be deducted from the pension. This should effectively turn commission
into a transparent fee.
Financial advice jargon
Click below to display some of the more common financial advice jargon:
| Commission | A payment made from a financial product provider to an adviser for selling their product. |
| Trail Commission | An annual commission paid by financial product providers to advisers for selling their product. |